From Stilettos to Comfort: How Heels Are Transforming in the Era of Streetwear and Self-Expression
The days when high heels were an essential attribute of an attractive woman confidently walking the streets of a metropolis are firmly in the past. The image of “absolute femininity,” embodied in the cliché of “a woman in stilettos,” no longer resonates with today’s audience. Since 2010, sales of classic stilettos have shown a steady decline: in 2024 alone, they dropped by 12% compared to the previous year, according to analytics firm Edited.
Flat footwear—ballet flats, loafers, boots—is gaining increasing popularity. The success of models from Miu Miu, Simone Rocha, and Sandy Liang, inspired by pointe shoes and bows, only confirms this trend. Even traditionally “heel-centric” brands like Christian Louboutin have expanded their ballet flat offerings by a third over the past year. The glamour of the “Sex and the City” and “The Devil Wears Prada” eras has become outdated. In 2024, Sarah Jessica Parker’s shoe brand, built around stilettos and wedges—both literally and metaphorically—closed down.
Heels have lost ground. Why?
- Streetwear: silhouette transformation:
The decline in heel popularity didn’t start yesterday—it began in the 2010s with the rise of street fashion. Where once skinny jeans and stilettos were a natural pairing, now loose-fitting pants pair much more organically with sneakers like Adidas Samba or Birkenstock clogs. - Remote work: from dress code to comfort:
The COVID-19 pandemic accelerated the shift to working from home, causing heel sales to plummet by 65% in 2020. Even with employees returning to offices, dress codes have noticeably softened. Comfort increasingly wins over visual drama. - Social media and fashion as self-expression:
Today, style is a way of self-presentation rather than adherence to a set norm. This has fueled the growth of virtual social connections and their “visualization” on social media. Freedom of expression and the desire to visually “make a statement” and emphasize individuality often lead to choices favoring contrast: deliberately rugged or comfortable footwear—clogs, sneakers, slides—become a striking accent paired with elegant or romantic outfits.
The Heel Is Coming Back—but in a New Form
Nevertheless, the heel has not disappeared—it is experiencing a renaissance, albeit in a different form. Classic stilettos are giving way to more diverse and comfortable options: kitten heels, wedges, sturdy “brick” heels, sculptural heels, flared heels, block heels, curved heels, and even wedge-heel hybrids. Chloé’s Chemna Kamali has also contributed to renewed interest in heels—through boho aesthetics and soft wedges.
The “new heel” is increasingly seen as an architectural element, part of the overall look rather than a symbol of sexuality. The category is transforming, not disappearing.
ANNA LEBSAK-KLEYMANS
CO-FOUNDER AND CEO OF FASHION CONSULTING GROUP