The hip-hop and fashion alliance — between a crisis of influence and the search for new creative formats
Hip-hop and fashion have long walked hand in hand. This alliance turned the streets into runways and hip-hop artists into style icons. Rapper-founded brands emerged, high-profile collaborations launched, and streetwear gained global recognition. But as fashion becomes oversaturated with partnerships and labels—and hip-hop’s cultural dominance shows signs of fading—the question arises: what’s next?
Crisis: Oversaturation and the Battle for Attention
Just a few years ago, hip-hop dictated the rules of fashion. Artists like Kanye West (now Ye) and Travis Scott led trends and stood at the crossroads of music and style. But today, the landscape is much more competitive.
- Rising competition among artists. No single figure dominates anymore; many fight for audience attention.
- Shifting consumer expectations. Simple graphic tees are no longer enough. Hip-hop-linked brands now need to create entire worlds rich in storytelling to stand out.
For example, rapper Skepta doesn’t just collaborate with Puma—he actively participates in the design and marketing processes, creating unique content and even launching a dedicated Instagram account* for the partnership. A$AP Rocky insists on exclusive retail partners for his capsule collections to emphasize their uniqueness.
Decline in Hip-Hop’s Musical Market Share: A Decline in Fashion Influence Too?
While hip-hop remains the most popular genre in the U.S., its market share has declined—from 26.7% in 2020 to 22.3%—making room for Latin, rock, pop, and country music.
This decline affects fashion too. Take Off-White, for instance: the brand reached its peak through its alignment with hip-hop culture, but in 2023 it was sold to Bluestar Alliance—a company known for mass-market licensing. This echoes the fate of other past hip-hop-driven labels that ended up in the hands of commercial fashion groups.
Outlook: Betting on Creativity
It’s not the end of the hip-hop x fashion relationship—it’s a new chapter. The evolution of the genre and the industry fuels new energy. Brands are becoming more inventive, bringing fresh ideas and emotion into their work.
A strong example: Pharrell Williams was appointed Creative Director of Louis Vuitton Men’s, furthering the dialogue between street culture and high fashion. Louis Vuitton also named Pusha T as an ambassador, signaling that hip-hop remains a powerful creative force of our time.
*Instagram is a restricted platform in the Russian Federation.
ANNA LEBSAK-KLEYMANS
CO-FOUNDER AND CEO OF FASHION CONSULTING GROUP